Hovercraft

Hovercraft  Project  in  Progress

Phase I - Float/forward motion

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This site will be updated throughout the project.  It is in process and here are some pictures during this first phase. Although I have seen several hovercraft projects that are shaped round and/or squared, I will make the shape of the hover craft square. This design will allow for wheels to be installed for the purpose of protecting the plumbing and plastic.  The wheels at 4" high will provide a gap between the plumbing and the ground surface.  This will also protect the plastic from damage while deflated or while the craft is moving.

 

Click here for Movie 1    Phase I movie
Click here for Movie 2    Phase I movie
Click    HERE    to go to Phase II
Picture below:   4' x 4' x 3/4" Plywood.  This is used because it is sturdy and will not bend or wrap.  However thinner and lighter material can be used.

Picture below:   3/4" thick plywood

 

Picture below:  Find Center, mark center with a 2 1/4" hole for plumbing. Air inlet. Although the plumbing inside is 1.5" diameter the outside is 2 1/4".  For the plumbing to seat and fit flush to the craft frame the hole was drilled to allow the plumbing to fit through the hole and come out above about 1" on the top of the craft platform.

In the picture below notice the drawing at the center hole, it is marked to be cut out at an angle to allow the plumbing pipe which is curved to set flat. Another picture below will show it cut out and the pipe curve associated to it.

Picture below: Each corner is marked for wheel placement, and inside support rails.
Notice the 4 holes for the wheel and the lines for the support rails and the holes drilled
in the drawing of the support rails. These holes will be used for screws to secure the
support rails.
The screws will be screwed from the top down into the support rails.
The holes are pilot holes, and a pilot hole will also be drilled in the support rails to prevent
the splitting of the support rails when screws are attached.

 

 Picture below:  This support bracket will be installed to add additional security to the support rails.  The support rails are 4 side pieces of  3" x 1" x 26" and 4 corner pieces of  3" x 1" x 12 3/4"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Picture below:  This is the picture mentioned above about the angle cut for the plumbing to fit flat. Notice the angle on the right side of the pipe.  When installed it will clear the angle and the pipe will set flat.

The 4 holes drilled around the center hole will be used to secure the pipe to the craft's platform with 4 1/2" x 3/16" bolts, washers, and nuts.

The two circle pieces of plywood are 8" in diameter by 1/4" thick.  The 4 holes drilled in each are for the bolts that will be used to secure the plumbing to the craft's platform.  Between the round plywood is where the plastic center will be secured.

 

 

Picture below shows the foam tape that will be used under and over the plastic as a gasket and prevent it from moving around and tearing. The foam tape is 3/4" thick and after I crushed it down to weaken the firmness, so when I tighten the bolts down it will crush down better and more evenly.
Picture below:  Laying out the plastic and drawing the center and the support bolt holes. I used the 8" round plywood as a guide and marked the holes also.

 

Picture below:  Temporary assemble to see if all parts align up and fit.  Notice the plastic is between the two 8" round plywood and the plumbing under the plastic.

Picture below:  Plastic sheet 6mm thick. I use 6mm hoping for a long life of the plastic. It is stiff and a little difficult to position for marking and placement.  The washers will be replaced with bigger outside diameter to allow for more compression of the two round pieces of plywood.

Picture below:   Markings of the end of the plastic that will be anchored to the platform to create the "donut" or air bag.  My intent is to create a donut that will be, once inflated, to be 6" high from the ground level to the platform.  This will allow for at least 2" higher then the wheels, or lower when craft is upright on the ground and inflated.  Because of the shape of the craft the "end" to be taped and stapled is of various lengths. 

Picture below:  Plumbing device has been QC'd and ready for installation.

 

 

Picture below:   The plastic is folded at the measured mark and wrapped in duct tape with the excess plastic on the outside then the duct tape folded in half and then folded in half again then stapled into position. The extra plastic is trimmed. 

Picture below:  by wrapping the edge of the plastic with duct tape and then folding it in half provide for a good tight seal.  Also this was the first plastic "donut" installed I installed a second one.  When I decided to replace this plastic with one 2" small in diameter it was easy to remove.  By pulling on an end of the duct tape it came up staples and all.

Picture Below:  After the edge of the plastic and duct tape has been stapled, the corners will be folded and duct tape secured. Use a small hammer to finish the staple installation if staples are not all the way in the plywood.

Picture above:  Use duct tape to cover the plumbing support rail brackets and screw heads. The first piece of duct tape (above) will seal off any air leaks that may occur due to the metal bracket and the plastic covering it. Unable to staple plastic on the metal bracket but with an extra staple on both sides of the bracket will hold the plastic in place and the first piece of duct tape will provide a seal.  The second piece of duct tape will cover the rest of the bracket and screw heads. 
 
 Davy is testing the balance (center) of the warp drive and flux capacitor support disc.  Davy is tightening the upper right support bolt to secure and balance the support.  If the bolts are not tightened equally then the inflated plastic will not fill evenly says Davy.

 
Picture below: After the plumbing support is tightened and secured for the warp drive we installed the hose around the plumbing support rails.  The hose is installed to prevent damage to the deflated plastic if the plumbing support rails come in contact with earth surfaces like, curbs, surface bumps, or other obstacles.

 

 

Picture below:  Next, the wheels will be installed.  The wheels will be used to prevent the craft from setting down on the plumbing support rails and on top of the plastic when the plastic is deflated.  The wheels are about 3/4" to 1" lower than the plumbing support rails, this will prevent the plumbing support rails from setting down on the earth surface, says Davey

Picture below:  Holes will be cut into the plastic.  2" holes will be the first test.  After the craft is built and ready, we will, at that time test the air movement through the holes and the flow under the craft and determine if  we need to increase or decrease the size of the holes.

Picture below:  I used 6 mil plastic and you can see the folds in the plastic.  The folds allowed air to escape and although the craft lifted up it's movement was hindered with the excessive air escaping.  I also tested the hole size. I used duct tape to close up diameter of the holes and to eliminate some.  I ended up with 4 holes about 1.5 inch in diameter and that seemed to work well when I changed the 6 mil to a 2 mil plastic.  With the 2 mil plastic the folds were not there and I also made the plastic shorter. (distance from craft to ground surface).

Picture below:   This became a problem.  The fold in the plastic will allow air to pass through the crease in the plastic.  The problem was created when I stapled the plastic and made a fold.  This fold should be made several times with many small folds that would not reach into the area of the plastic touching the surface.  I will continue to test the craft with the folds knowing at this time that the craft will not have a flat bearing to ride on.  This fold will also cause the holes cut into the plastic to be of a different size.  For example, if I were to cut large holes the craft plastic will not fill up. If I cut small holes then the air will escape thro the folds and the craft will not lift up.

Picture below:  While the bag is inflated a little, you can see the fold decreasing.  However the fold is too big and will cause the air to escape, and not provide a smooth bottom surface, also the bag size is ok, and works but not needed to be big for this project.  I will in phase II use less plastic and a thinner plastic. (2mil)  This is 6 mil thick.   

 

Picture below:  The blower will be installed next.  You can see in the picture below the wheels that protect the plactic from being pinched and the plumbing underneath is protected.  When the plastic bag is inflated the height will be high enough to lift the craft up higher than the wheels.  These small wheels will not touch the surface when the plastic "bag" is inflated.  If the craft is stopped abruptly then the wheels will touch the surface and not the plastic or the plumbing support.

Picture below:  The blower delivers 235mph air speed and after testing found that this is more than needed.  It is a 3 speed blower and the craft is fully inflated and enough air passing under that the 3rd speed is not required.

Picture below:  The blocks are used to elevate the blower up so the air can pass under.  The blocks allows clearance for the intake of air.

Picture below:  Handles are installed for support.  This craft is designed with the pilot on their knees and holding on to the handles located on both sides of the blower.  This is for balance control and also to hold on.  With this position the pilot can lean forward/left, forward/right, back/left and back/right. In other words the pilot can position his body to the center and maintain balance.  By leaning in any direction can apply weight to balance the craft when aloft.

The handles in above and below pictures are not useful, they have been removed.

It is important to NOT allow any air to escape.  Although some air escaping is acceptable because there is plenty of air available.  But with zero air escape the craft will perform better.

Picture below:  The test pilot demonstrates the hand hold and is ready to shift his weight towards center. In this position the craft will be able to hold his sister on the other side.  Being of equal weight he says they both can fly the craft. Charlotte the test pilot's twin sister is preparing some ice cream and will join him soon for a test flight and a quick swim before ice cream to finish a long day of testing.

Picture below:  The test pilot, Davy is testing the stability and potential use as a skate board, Davy is a skate board pro. He says not to attempt this while the craft is elevated or aloft. And to always wear protective clothing and head gear.

Picture below:  In the picture below you can see where I taped the folds with duct tape,  although this provides a 6" lift it is too much.  The plastic will be replaced that will have a 4" rise to it.  This will decrease the folds.  The picture also shows what happens when it is inflated and you "get on". While inflated I stepped onto the craft and it dropped where I stepped and the other side inflated more and the fold popped out at the tape area.  Lesson 1:   get on first.  Lesson 2:  If folds are into the "donut" area, get a new smaller plastic.  I later secured the plastic with many small folds and ended up with a few folds where after taping them it was acceptable. See pictures after plastic was replaced.  

Picture below;   Now after a cool swim says test pilot Davey, its time for much needed ice cream.  While test flying the craft the balance or center was not difficult to achieve.  There is about 6" movement from front to back and from side to side before being off balance he said.  Once balance/center was achieved it was fairly easy to maintain but needed constant attention to the act of balancing the craft, he also noted.

Picture below:  Charlotte is joining Davy for some ice cream. Wow, a big bite says Charlotte.  Charlotte deserves some ice cream after taking notes and assisting with the design and assisting the test pilot. All in a days work she says.  After the final testing of phase 1 she will test the speed and direction to determine the flying capabilities and note how to improve the crafts' weight, speed and its steering.  A helmet will be required during these testing run she added, because it is fast now and she will test the maximums for the craft. 

Sky Cycle - Ky Ycle

Next:   I will replace the plastic bag with a smaller one.  The first bag was used to test the air release holes and the height of the craft when inflated.  I determined that the holes were too big then too small after taping some shut.  I will make the bag 2 inches smaller in diameter (there is 6" lift) and a 4" lift will still clear the wheel height by 4 inches.

Picture below:  I added some folds into the center support plate.  Because the plastic was 6ml it was too stiff and when the craft was inflated the plastic didn't expand beyond the actual shape.  However, with the 2ml plastic the plastic expanded beyond the shape allowing the plastic to form a flat surface with no folds in the plastic.

As you can see the plastic is smaller then the original  plastic used.  This plastic is 2 mil thick and shorter which will not raise the craft as high as the first test plastic did.  But, that is ok because the craft will raise up and float on air anyway.  The height of the bag could be tested later for the best height from craft to the ground surface. More later on this.

 

Pictures coming:   The bag has been replaced and new holes made. The 6 air holes in the plastic are about 1 1/4" in diameter and the bag is 2 " smaller in diameter.    Lift off was obtained.  It rested on the "air bearing" and was movable. It appeared to weigh very little because after applying some forward pressure it moved effortlessly. 

After several attempts I found that the folds, which were a problem in the first plastic bag, is also a problem in this second plastic bag.  However, after taping some folds into the bag that it was acceptable and air lift was achieved. 

Picture below:  After I determined that the plastic bag was acceptable, but a new bag would be required for a better seal, I mounted a fan on the craft.  I will test this fan next and determine the thrust available.  After which I will replace the bag with a 2mil thick piece of plastic.  Hopefully this will result in little to no folds.  

Picture below:  Front view of hovercraft with fan installed.

Picture below:  Coming,  I will next test the craft with the newly installed fan.  This fan will be replaced after the test with a more powerful fan or fans.

The carpet pieces are for the knees

Click here for Movie 1
Click here for Movie 2
If you saw the movies above you may have noticed that poles were used to control the direction of the craft.  Also they provided safety for the shin bones.  By placing the poles at the sides or corners of the craft where it was drifting, the craft corrected its direction. 
 
 
The fan in the back added some forward motion but hardly worth it. The speed was fast. The downward slop of the driveway was enough to make it go about 10mph and gaining speed.  The Craft didn't go up the driveway on its own, I had to push it, but it was up and working and I was able to run "fast" behind it while pushing with a pilot on it.     Ok, No brakes, No steering, followed the slop of the driveway which was forward and to the right where the slope was for water runoff.
 

After replacing the plastic with a 2ml thickness, I found that the plastic was durable and better than the 6ml by far.  On the 2ml plastic I shortened the height by 3 inches which was acceptable, but made "Center" balancing more difficult.   I think the 3 additional inches I shortened the 2ml bag should have been left alone and left at 6.0 inches.  

 The wheels worked well.  When balance was off the wheels made contact with the surface and rolled, allowing the craft to continue its motion with out damaging the plastic or plumbing and craft didn't crash.
The testing of the craft has accomplished the following:  bag size, hole size in the bag, durability of the bag attachment, depth of the bag, height of the craft when inflated with pilot on board, wheels functions, protection of the plumbing, sturdiness, power of the blower, power of the fan.  The fan is weak and virtually useless, but it was a fan laying around in the garage.    

On the next attempt to tighten the specs. I will replace the bag and extend the height back to 6.0 inches.

 
The craft could have been made with different materials.  If other materials were used then the construction would be different. For example, if the platform was aluminum the attachment of the bag would have to be different.  This is why the craft is mostly wood. Wood can be stapled, screwed and bolted in place, where as if aluminum it would have required holes drilled, and wouldn't be suitable for staples, screws, nails etc.
 
See     Phase II - Steering and Braking.     Go